1960s Smiths Astral Military Skin Diver Watch Men’s 38mm CM4501

A watch that needs no introduction , in great condition for age with the original box and last serviced in 2025.

This Smiths Astral Diver dates from the mid 1960s It has a frosted, gilt finished, 60465E hacking 17-jewel movement with a double-roller lever escapement, a steel escape and a monometallic balance with a beryllium balance-spring. The stainless steel case is marked 20 Atmos, but the non-screw down crown makes the claim of 200m water resistance questionable.

Samuel Smith established S.Smith & Son in 1851. In 1873, his son, Samuel Smith Jr opened a shop on London’s Strand, selling English and Swiss pocket watches. In 1934 Smiths began making their clocks, but making watches was far more difficult. In 1939, with WW2 imminent, Smith’s factory moved from London to a new site near Cheltenham and within 3 years, they were able to supply the military with a pocket watch and a chronograph which was designed and put into production in just 12 months.

During WW2 Smiths developed the 12.15 movement, refined in 1954 to become the 27CS (CS = centre seconds, an Air Ministry requirement). This was further developed with a hacking function to meet Defence Specification DEF-3-B (Sept 1966) Wrist Watch, General Service, NATO designation W10. Smiths won the contract to supply the British Armed Forces with the W10 and deliveries began in 1967.

The 60467E movement in my watch is a further development, now with added calendar. There is some speculation that the watch was an attempt to win the Royal Navy Divers watch contract (replacing the MilSub), however this is conjecture and I can’t find evidence for this. Sadly, the CM4501 represents the death throes of Smiths as the powerhouse of 20th Century English watchmaking, it is a ‘contract watch’ with the case and dial bought overseas and a Smiths movement fitted.